It has been a while since we've written last, so I'll try to give you some of the highlights:
The Nigerian Christian culture has dictated that if people are going to get married, they have to get married in a church, while the traditional cultural heritage says they have to have a traditional village wedding. It is part of the unique blending of the traditional African values and the European influence from colonization and missionaries that makes Nigeria what it is. We went to church the other day and without realizing it, walked in on a "white wedding". It's a little different than what we are used to, for instance, it lasted about 3 hours during a regular Sunday worship service, and 2/3 of it was people dancing and singing. Kristen and I were both called up to the front of the church to give a demonstration of our dancing prowess. There was a lot of laughing from the crowd. Then, before they vows and I-do's, the pastor reprimanded the couple for having their traditional wedding before receiving the congregation's blessings. This is a nuance of marriage that we just don't see in the US. The Nigerian concept of marriage is much more communal than our own, for example, when a woman marries a man, she is not just marrying him, she is marrying his whole family and vice versa. This means that marriage really is a family affair here and everyone in the family gets a say. The congregation also needs to give their blessing before the couple can get married. This is the "if anyone has good reason for these two to be wed, speak now or forever hold your peace" part of the ceremony, except they take it pretty seriously here, and it's not unusual for more than one person to voice concerns. The concerns then need to be rectified before the marriage can move forward. It puts a whole new spin on how you treat those in your community when you know it can affect your ability to get married. Luckily, the chiding of the couple only lasted a few minutes and they tied the knot in the end.
Kristen and I went swimming at the only swimming pool in Jos yesterday. Swimming in Nigeria is an experience. We have a seamstress friend named Blessing who has made a few African dresses for Kristen, who just finished up her secondary school exams and wanted to celebrate. Neither she, nor her two sons, Charles who is 12 and Henry who is 8, knew how to swim and wanted to learn. As an ex-lifeguard and swimmer, I told them I would love to teach them. So when we get there, the first thing we notice is that there is probably 100 people in the pool, and about 3 of them actually know how to swim. I jumped in to the deep end, Charles had said he has swam before, so Blessing, assuming he had, threw him in. Charles sank like a rock, straight to the bottom, no bobbing, no splashing to keep his head above water, just sank. I, thinking he could swim, just thought he was swimming around down there. Luckily Kristen yelled to me that he was not coming up and to go get him. So I pulled him up and we immediately moved over to the shallow end of the pool for more remedial lessons. The lessons were not easy to do because 2/3 of the people in the pool were trying their own hand at learning how to swim or jumping in the shallow end. Now in the U.S., if you're swimming in a public pool or lake, you would expect people to try to avoid you or at least keep from swimming into you. Not in Nigeria. People would practice their swimming right next to you, kicking you, scratching you, running into you, and then there were people jumping into the pool inches from you. The lessons went well, neither Blessing nor her sons are going to be breaking any world records in the near future, but they were floating, putting their faces in the water and doing some rudimentary freestyle by the end.
Baba is our cook. Baba, which means "Daddy" in Hausa, is somewhere between 85 and 90. Honestly. He started working for the English as a cook in 1940, when he said he was already over 20 years old. He showed us his "resume" of recommendations from different British officials from the 50's and 60's and from foreign missionaries or Nigerian government officials since. He was so proud about his resume and kept it in an old report cover. Baba cooks lunch and dinner for us 6 days a week (Sundays off), and until about two weeks ago was cooking breakfast as well. He shows up at 7 am and usually leaves around 7 pm. We have this running joke that when we ask him what's for lunch or dinner he always say "I don't know", he likes to surprise us. He's the most humble and kind hearted man I think I've ever met. I was asking him if he enjoyed his job and he told me that a cook used to be respected like a doctor in Nigeria because they have so much power over the health of the person they were cooking for. He also said that he liked it because he can always find work (not an easy thing to do in Nigeria). He conceded that it doesn't pay well, like the missionaries that he used to cook for, but that was good because a Christian should not make too much money. Earning too much money means people stop trusting in God. He said that cooking for people gives him a chance to serve them and show them the love of God, just like the missionaries. He also showed us his marriage certificate dated July 19, 1954 when we were asking about his family. His wife lives in a village about an hour from our house in a neighboring village (it's actually pretty common for husbands and wives to live apart like that for work), and his 7 children with their grandchildren live in and around Jos. He goes to visit them on Sundays when he has off from work. I think we'll miss Baba the most, not just because he cooks great food for us, but because he has shown us more love from his humble position than anyone else.
We also wanted to let everyone know that due to changes in the Nigerian visa policy we will be coming home at the end of October. Our initial plans were to stay around 6 months, because the visas we obtained were good for 3 months with the option to renew it for another 3 months. Just before we arrived however, the government changed their policy so that visas are now only good for 1 month with the option to renew for 1 month. I think we snuck in under the old policy due to some strings that Dr. Chris pulled for us. All being said and done, I feel like we've had a very fruitful 3 months here, maybe not productivity wise (we didn't complete any major projects for them) but in the sense that we learned about our selves and grew a tremendous amount. We made some wonderful friendships, heard some amazing stories and got to know truly inspiring people, all of which adds to this being one of those "life changing" events for us. I am so grateful that Kristen and I had the opportunity to come here and share life with the Nigerians for the short time that we did.